The Wake

I’m not Ukrainian, but I find it very easy to relate to the working-class heritage of Eastern European countries. For over 50 years, Kramarczuk’s in Northeast Minneapolis has exemplified the culinary traditions of their homeland.

Walking into the store, I was immediately struck by the expansive glass display cases containing dozens upon dozens of sausage varieties. From Andouille to Blood and Tongue, almost every imaginable classification of meat is slinked and linked for your pleasure. The rest of the store also flaunts imported European pastries, breads, candies and cheeses.

The restaurant is located in the next room, which also holds the seating area. The long deli counter boasts a plentiful assortment of ethnic European dishes, all modestly priced between $5 and $10.

I was incredibly hungry. Lucky for me, Ukrainian food is designed to quell even the greatest of appetites. The meals are all hearty, meat-and-potatoes kind of stuff.

Because it’s Kramarczuk’s, I decided to order the Ukrainian Sausage. For $6.99 I got a thick tube of meat splayed across a bun and covered with melted Swiss cheese and sauerkraut. I also ordered a side of Szegedin Goulash, which contains pork, sauerkraut and onions with paprika.

Needless to say, the meal filled me up. The sausage was satisfying, and would have gone perfectly with a dark ale. The goulash transported me back to my home and childhood, because it tasted almost exactly like a recipe my mom uses.

My experience at Kramarczuk’s doesn’t appear to be uncommon. Countless patrons come back for more, longing for a piece of their heritage, and with thick accents and empty stomachs they dine on the foods of their forefathers.