The appeal of Uptown’s Moto-i is that it is actually the first sake brewery outside of Japan. And when you enter, it feels like total coolsville, with stainless-steel-topped tables and little to no art on the walls, letting you focus on the soft light diffused throughout the restaurant. However, what we predict will keep customers coming back is the menu that pairs perfectly with their sakes—creative Japanese-style small plates and snacks, which could be in danger of being overlooked at the prospect of home-brewed sake.

We tried the Premium Sake Sampler—three one-ounce pours of their house-brewed specialties. These included Junmai Nama Genshu, which was the driest of the three, but ended on a sweet note. The second, called Junmai Nama, tasted like honeydew. The third, Junmai Nama Nigori (our server’s favorite), was unfiltered, which gave it a thick, creamy and rice-like flavor.

As for the food, the mysteriously named monkfish liver terrine sounded scary, but was fantastic in the end. It came in creamy discs, fanned along a long white plate, and tasted like a melt-in-your mouth cousin of Ahi tuna (without the raw fish texture). The grated daikon radish with ponzu added a lovely citrus note.

Happily, our server was undeniably learned in the art of hospitality—she was attentive, but not smothering, and took care to clear plates as we were finished with them, staying true to the clean feel of the space. She answered every question we had with humorous personal anecdotes, and provided reassuring encouragement as we ordered, noting that most of what we were getting were her favorites. Her timing with the food, although a little staggered, assured that every item was delivered at its optimal temperature—from the dumplings to the doughnuts.

At the end of the meal, the loyal server swiftly brought forth the Sata Andagi—Japanese-style doughnuts, sticky with sugar and five spice that melted onto the just-out-of-the fryer dessert. They were warm, charming, deeply-colored, gnarly things that reminded us (as the sugar clung to our mouths) of the sweets we ate, carefree, when we were kids.

After two hours of sitting in Moto-i’s cushy booths, we wanted to curl up right there…especially after those damn doughnuts. 

LIGHTNING ROUND:

Quick, opinions! Lightning is dangerous!

Frightening: biting into the incredibly hard tofu in the steamed tofu bun, and thinking I’d accidentally tried the pork bun (Maggie’s a vegetarian!).

Reassuring: the spicy chili mayo that came with our Taro Shoestrings. Because mayo is always delicious, as long as it isn’t Hellman’s.

Disappointing: the absence of water at our table. We must remain hydrated!

Soothing: the lighting boxes overhead—clear panels filled with golden fabric that let the light shine through, with twigs scattered throughout.

Unique: the cone that the Taro Shoestrings came wrapped in was made from a Japanese newspaper (clearly, the Shoestrings were a hit).

Forgettable: shiitake-pea shoot-carrot steamed dumplings. Although they were served piping hot, we couldn’t discern what was what in the slightly mushy filling.

Tags: food, Lyn-Lake