Asian food is a lot like pizza. It’s hard to get it really wrong, and when you taste the good stuff, you know it’s good, and there’s nothing better.

As college students, we have a social and moral obligation to eat as much Asian takeout and drink as much coffee as humanly possible. Luckily for us, we are blessed with a campus that provides numerous options for satisfying these cravings, and the options we are given are good more times than not.

Village Wok on Washington Avenue is a campus landmark, and it has been considered by many (myself included) to be the pinnacle of Asian food in the area. At least, it was until late October, when Pagoda on 4th and 15th in Dinkytown opened its doors to the public.

Stepping through the front doors of Pagoda, it’s hard to place the sentiments brought on by the restaurant’s ambiance. High ceilings and exposed piping are reminiscent of the building’s CD Warehouse days. Flat screen TVs mounted on the walls play Japanese music videos subtitled in Japanese.

Turning right from the entrance, a long counter stretches the length of the restaurant. The first glass case contains mouth-watering Asian-American pastries and desserts. A chef waiting on standby to help you create your own noodle dish for under $4 mans the next counter.

The restaurant itself is huge, with a large seating capacity and a massive waitstaff. The spacious interior doesn’t give an intimate impression. Instead, it feels somewhat like a chain in its atmosphere.

Pagoda’s menu is intimidating. With dishes from all regions of China, Indonesia, Vietnam, Japan, Thailand, and other Asian areas, it’s hard to come to a decision on what to order. The list of selections number well over 200, the cheapest being less than $4 and the most expensive topping out around $13.

Instead of trying something obscure for a first meal at a new restaurant, I figured testing some Asian standards would be a rational basis of comparison. Among three people, the dishes ordered were: an appetizer of fried cream cheese puffs, vegetable fried rice, General Tso chicken and Kung Pao chicken.

The fried cream cheese puffs, at just under $4, were incredible. Delicately crispy, the insides seemed fuller than other restaurants. Every bite was rich and delicious.

Fried rice is a great point of comparison for Asian restaurants, and Pagoda doesn’t disappoint. As opposed to the heavily greased fried rice that Village Wok offers, Pagoda’s is fresher and lighter. With the hot red pepper oil provided at each table, this dish is a surefire hit.

The chicken dishes were a godsend. The General Tso, in its thick red sauce, came with heaps of fresh broccoli. Portions of all the entrees were staggering for just over $5. The chicken was prepared flawlessly, and each taste melted and coalesced into harmonious sweet and spicy flavors in my mouth. The Kung Pao had a definite kick, with red chili peppers accenting the sauce perfectly.

By the end of the meal, I was speechless after the magic that had just happened to my palate. Food like one finds at Pagoda changes your whole perspective on a region’s culinary prowess.

I’m sorry, Village Wok. Though you will always hold a place in my heart, you have been dethroned. Pagoda is the new king of Asian food on campus. Long live the king.

Overall: 9.5/10

Tags: Dinkytown, food