The Wake

The neon green star, a beacon for empty bellies, illuminates the night sky with promises of innovative American cuisine and a convivial atmosphere. Located in a historic building of northeast Minneapolis, The Sample Room, a hybrid bar and restaurant, serves succulent dishes in a timely and amiable fashion. The sexy lighting with black and muted gold décor simulates jazz lounge ambiance, minus the musical instruments.

The Sample Room is true to its name by offering patrons a variety of seating and eating options. One choice that is not available, however, is the nonsmoking option. Service is procurable at the bar, high bar tables or roomy booths. The menu contains both traditional soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees, as well as an American version of tapas, small portions of food traditionally served in Spain at bars and bodegas. Sunday through Thursday offers nightly specials and a new soup, salad and sandwich of the day.

My companions and I arrived at the restaurant around 7:30 on a Monday night and were seated immediately. Our waitress was prompt with drinks and gave us ample time to peruse the sample plates and platters. The diminutively lit room, while enhancing the mood, did not enhance menu visibility. For our dinner we decided to share two grand sample combo platters, $19.25 each, in which any four sample plates can be chosen. All sample plates are served with warm bread. It was a delightful treat when the napkin enveloping the bread revealed ciabatta, rosemary sourdough and double raisin rye as opposed to insipid white bread and butter.

For our meal we ordered two cheese plates: warm Camembert with caramelized onions and baked Stickney Hill Goat Cheese with oven dried roma tomatoes and basil oil. Camembert, a rich and creamy French cheese, was warm and complimented the caramelized onions nicely. The combination of a roma tomato and the tiny goat cheese cake all on a slice of ciabatta bread was superb. Chilled Guinness-marinated flank steak was delicately sliced and topped with a tangy citrus currant Cumberland sauce. The pork ribs, braised in a whiskey tomato sauce, were lean and tender. We double ordered the Maryland Blue Crab cakes; moist, bite-sized morsels drizzled with a red pepper sour cream, and the sautéed shrimp bathed in an arugula, green peppercorn and pine nut pesto. The au gratin potatoes were tender, served in a creamy sauce and topped with crispy fried onions.

The service was impeccable. Our meal was dished up quickly and more fabulous bread was delivered to the table as well. Our waitress was cordial and speedily refilled water glasses, sometimes even filling up a glass twice in one visit. My companions and I decided to further our indulgences with dessert. The crème brulee special for the evening was a chocolate and butterscotch duo presented in small custard dishes with a chocolate-dipped biscotti, $4.50. The butterscotch was satisfying but had a less distinctive flavor than the chocolate. Overall, the tiramisu, $4.50, was splendid, but the cheese layer seemed a bit heavy. Our final dessert, a Bailey’s cheesecake, $4.95, was rich and delicious. I was especially pleased with the sweet, moist graham cracker crust.

The Sample Room provides an inventive take on traditional American cuisine in a neighborly, casual setting, while staying within the ever-dwindling college budget.

The Sample Room is located at 2124 Marshall St NE in Minneapolis. Phone: (612) 789-0333 Hours: Sun-Thu 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm; The bar is open until 1am.